Canon EOS RP Photo Settings: A Beginner’s Guide
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The quick answer
For Canon EOS RP photo settings, I start with RAW, the full 3:2 image area, Auto white balance, and Servo AF for moving subjects. I switch between 1-point AF for still subjects and Face + Tracking for people, with Eye Detection enabled when appropriate. These are the settings I used in my 2020 tutorial, so adjust them for the way you shoot.
Watch the full EOS RP photography settings video on YouTube.
Correction to the video: I mixed up “Release shutter without card” and “Release shutter without lens.” They are separate settings. The card option can let the camera fire without saving a photo; the lens option is the relevant one for a manual lens the camera cannot detect. More on that below.
My Canon EOS RP photo settings at a glance
| Setting | My starting point |
|---|---|
| Image quality | RAW for editing; Large/Fine JPEG for ready-to-share photos |
| Crop/aspect ratio | Full for general photography; 1:1 for square product shots |
| White balance and color space | Auto white balance; sRGB |
| Picture Style | Neutral for my editing workflow; Standard for a finished JPEG look |
| AF operation | Servo AF for moving subjects; One-Shot AF is useful for still subjects |
| AF method | 1-point AF for a selected detail; Face + Tracking and Eye Detection for people |
| Highlight tone priority | Off for my normal setup |
| Touch shutter | Disabled to prevent accidental shots |
| Manual focus peaking | High, red when using manual lenses |
Press MENU and use the still-photo shooting menus to find these options. Some choices and menu items depend on shooting mode, lens, or other settings. The video walks through them on the camera.
Image quality: RAW, JPEG, or both?
Open Image quality. I normally shoot RAW without a JPEG because I edit my photos in Lightroom. RAW gives me more flexibility to adjust the finished image afterward. If you want smaller files that are ready to share, choose a Large/Fine JPEG instead. The camera can also record RAW and JPEG together if you want both versions.
Smaller JPEG sizes are there when you need a smaller file, but I wouldn't choose one as my general-purpose setting if I want the most detail available in a JPEG. File size and detail are different choices, so check the setting before an important shoot.
Crop, image review, and the memory card
Under Cropping/aspect ratio, I normally use Full, the camera's 3:2 frame. I sometimes use 1:1 when I'm taking square product photos. Choose the shape that suits the job, and remember to switch back when you want the full frame again.
I turn Image review off so the last photo doesn't pop up after every shot. You can leave a short review on if you prefer to check each image immediately.
For regular photography, disable Release shutter without card. That helps prevent you from taking what looks like a photo when there is no card to record it. This is the setting I incorrectly described in the video, and I corrected it in the video's description.
Exposure and color
Manual exposure and ISO
In the tutorial I usually shoot in Manual mode and set exposure myself. I don't normally use Auto ISO, but the RP has an Auto ISO range and minimum shutter-speed setting if you prefer to let the camera make some decisions. Choose a shutter speed that suits your subject and raise ISO when the light requires it.
I usually leave Highlight tone priority off. It can help protect highlight detail, but Canon notes that enabling it raises the minimum available ISO to 200. Try it in a high-contrast scene if it helps your workflow, and compare the results.
I leave Exposure simulation enabled so the display gives me a useful exposure preview. Treat that preview as a guide and check the image after shooting, especially with flash or unusual lighting.
White balance and Picture Style
My starting point is Auto white balance. It works well for me, and a RAW file gives me room to adjust white balance during editing. If the camera's color looks wrong for the scene, try a preset or a custom white balance instead.
I use sRGB and prefer the Neutral Picture Style for my editing workflow. If you're shooting JPEGs and want a more finished look straight out of camera, Standard is a good place to start. Picture Styles are most consequential to the camera-produced JPEG and preview; they are not a substitute for editing your RAW file.
Autofocus: Servo, tracking, and eye detection
In the still-photo AF menu, I choose Servo AF for moving subjects. It continues adjusting focus while you maintain autofocus. For a stationary subject, One-Shot AF focuses and locks when focus is achieved, making it useful when you want to compose around a fixed point.
My two main AF methods are 1-point AF and Face + Tracking. I use 1-point when I want to choose a specific detail on a still subject. For people, Face + Tracking with Eye Detection enabled is a useful starting point. Check that the camera has selected the intended person or eye, because tracking depends on the scene and isn't guaranteed.
The RP also has a separate Continuous AF option. It keeps the lens ready to focus before you initiate autofocus; it is not the same menu setting as Servo AF. Servo is the AF operation I select for following movement while shooting. I leave the AF-assist beam off because I find the light distracting, although enabling it can help the camera focus in some dim situations.
Manual lenses and focus peaking
For a manual lens that the RP cannot detect electronically, the relevant custom function is Release shutter without lens, under the camera's Custom Functions. Enable it when the camera refuses to fire with that kind of adapted lens. It is separate from Release shutter without card, which does not enable a vintage lens.
When I focus manually, I enable MF peaking and use High with red as the display color. The colored outline helps me see areas that appear in focus. It is a focusing aid, so zoom in and check critical focus when accuracy matters. Use a suitable adapter for the lens you are mounting.
Corrections and other settings
- Lens aberration correction: I generally leave corrections on for supported lenses to help with issues such as dark corners or distortion. Available corrections depend on the lens and camera data.
- Noise reduction: I turn long-exposure and high-ISO noise reduction off in my editing workflow. For long exposures, the camera's setting can reduce long-exposure noise but may add processing time. Test it for your own subjects rather than assuming software editing does exactly the same thing.
- Touch shutter: I disable it because I sometimes touch the screen accidentally. I still use touch to choose a focus point.
- HDR and focus bracketing: I didn't use either in this setup. Focus bracketing can capture a sequence at different focus distances for stacking in software, which can be useful for macro photography.
Frequently asked questions
Should I shoot RAW or JPEG on the EOS RP?
I choose RAW when I plan to edit. Large/Fine JPEG is a good choice when you want a finished, smaller file directly from the camera. You can also record both if you want a ready-to-share version and a RAW file.
Which EOS RP autofocus setting should I use for portraits?
Try Face + Tracking with Eye Detection enabled, and use Servo AF if your subject is moving. Confirm that the camera is focusing on the intended person and eye.
Why won't my EOS RP take a picture with a vintage lens?
If the lens or adapter has no electronic contacts, enable Release shutter without lens in Custom Functions. Check that the adapter fits correctly and focus manually. Release shutter without card is a different setting.
Why can't I select ISO 100?
Check whether Highlight tone priority is enabled. Canon specifies a minimum ISO of 200 with it on. Other settings and shooting modes can also affect the choices available.
Final thoughts
Start with the settings that fit your subject, take a few test photos, and change what doesn't work for you. The best setup is the one that helps you get the shot, whether you prefer ready-to-share JPEGs or RAW files you can edit later.
Keep reading
Watch more camera videos on FoxTailWhipz on YouTube.