Canon R100 rear settings menu with Don't Change This text and a red arrow.

Canon R100 Photo Settings: A Beginner’s Guide

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The quick answer

For my Canon R100 photo settings, I start with RAW if I plan to edit, 3:2 aspect ratio, evaluative metering, and Face+Tracking with eye detection for people. I keep ISO as low as practical without sacrificing the shutter speed I need, and use ISO 6400 as my Auto ISO maximum. These are starting points, not settings that fit every scene.

If you want photos ready to share without editing, choose Large JPEG and Auto White Balance instead. You don't have to shoot in manual mode permanently to use this guide.

Watch the complete photo settings walkthrough on YouTube

Canon R100 photo settings at a glance

Setting My starting point When to change it
Image quality RAW for editing; Large JPEG for easy sharing Choose RAW + JPEG if you want both and have card space
Aspect ratio 3:2 Crop for a different shape later
ISO As low as practical; Auto ISO maximum 6400 Raise it when needed for a usable exposure and shutter speed
Metering Evaluative Try partial or spot for a difficult backlit subject
White balance Daylight for my RAW workflow; Auto for beginners using JPEG Change it when the colors don't match the scene
Autofocus Servo AF, Face+Tracking and eye detection for people Use Spot AF for a precise subject
Picture Style Standard Try other looks for JPEGs

Start with the standard menu

  1. Press Menu and go to Display level settings.
  2. Choose Menu display, then Standard instead of Guided.
  3. For setup, turn the mode dial to M to make the settings shown in my walkthrough available. You can switch to another shooting mode afterward; some options may then be unavailable or controlled automatically.

Use the buttons and dial to navigate. The R100 does not have a touchscreen, so you cannot tap the screen to select a subject, despite what I say in the video.

Choose RAW, JPEG or both

Under Image quality, I usually select RAW because I edit my pictures and want more flexibility to adjust exposure and color afterward. RAW files take more space and normally need processing before sharing.

If you want a smaller file ready to transfer and share, I recommend Large JPEG. You can also record RAW and JPEG together if you want an editable file and a ready-to-use copy. That takes more card space. C-RAW is a compressed RAW option if saving space matters; I use regular RAW.

For storage, the video description links to the SanDisk 128GB Extreme PRO SDXC UHS-I card. Check the size and current retailer options before ordering.

Set the aspect ratio and exposure

Set Still image aspect ratio to 3:2. It gives you the full native framing and lets you decide how to crop later. Other aspect ratios give you a different framing in camera; RAW files retain crop information that compatible software may handle differently.

For automatic exposure, I usually start with exposure compensation at zero and sometimes use about -1/3 stop. Adjust it when the camera's result is too bright or dark. One correction to the video: on the R100, exposure compensation can also work in M with ISO Auto, where the camera adjusts ISO. With shutter speed, aperture and ISO all set manually, you control exposure through those values instead.

ISO and Auto ISO maximum

Use the lowest ISO that still allows the exposure, aperture and shutter speed you need. ISO 100 to 400 is a useful starting range in good light, but a higher ISO is preferable to a badly blurred or unusably dark photo. More noise is the tradeoff.

In ISO speed settings, I set Max for Auto to 6400. This is my personal ceiling, not a guarantee of clean images; test it for your own subjects and tolerance for noise. If the limit prevents a good exposure, change the lighting or settings, or consider raising the limit.

Metering mode

I use Evaluative metering as a general-purpose choice. It considers the scene to help the camera determine exposure. Partial and spot metering measure smaller areas at the center, while center-weighted average gives greater weight to the center. Metering also provides a reference on the exposure meter when you set exposure manually.

White balance and JPEG processing

I usually use Daylight white balance with RAW because I can adjust color later. For a beginner shooting JPEGs, Auto White Balance is an easier place to start. Check the result under mixed or unusually colored light, because automatic white balance can still get it wrong.

I leave Picture Style on Standard. For JPEGs, try the other styles if you want a different contrast, color or black-and-white look. RAW editing provides more flexibility, although camera settings can affect the preview or how compatible software initially renders a RAW file.

If you want a ready-to-share JPEG, try Auto Lighting Optimizer at Low or Standard and compare the results. I leave Highlight tone priority off for my RAW workflow. It can help preserve bright tones, but it raises the minimum available ISO to 200 and may increase noise. Enable or Enhanced is a choice to test, not a free improvement in every scene.

Noise reduction and lens corrections

For JPEGs, I suggest Low or Standard high-ISO noise reduction. In my experience, High can make fine detail look smeared. I also enable the available lens aberration corrections in my setup, though the available corrections depend on the lens and can change the rendered image.

For long exposures, Auto long-exposure noise reduction can help with exposures of one second or longer. It may take additional processing time after the shot. Don't assume all noise-reduction settings affect RAW files identically; check the setting and your editing software.

Autofocus settings for people and precise subjects

I generally use Servo AF for subjects that may move and Face+Tracking with Eye detection enabled for people. Servo tracks focus while you hold the shutter button halfway; the separate Continuous AF setting can keep the camera focusing before the shot and uses more battery.

Face and eye detection can miss in difficult light, with small or obscured faces, or near the edge of the frame, so check the focus box. For a small or specific subject, I switch to Spot AF and position the focus point with the camera controls. One-Shot AF is another option for a stationary subject when you want focus to lock before taking the photo.

Manual focus and focus peaking

If you use manual focus, enable MF peaking to highlight edges that appear in focus. I prefer red because it is easy for me to see. Use the highlight as an aid and check critical focus, especially when the subject lacks clear edges.

I turn off the AF-assist beam because I find the light distracting, though it may help the camera focus in some dark situations. I also disable lens electronic manual focus after One-Shot AF so I don't accidentally move focus with the ring. On a lens with a combined focus/control ring, select its focus function when you want to focus manually.

Drive mode, stabilization and display

Use Single shooting for one photo per press, continuous shooting for a burst, or the self-timer when you need a delay. I generally keep lens stabilization on when handholding with a compatible stabilized lens. It helps counter camera shake, but it won't freeze a moving subject. Movie digital IS is a video setting and does not stabilize still photos.

I turn image review off so the last photo doesn't interrupt the next shot. Turn it on if you prefer to check each image. I also enable Exposure simulation as a useful preview of brightness, but the screen is an approximation, not a guarantee of the finished photo. A histogram and grid can help you judge brightness and composition.

Frequently asked questions

Should a beginner use RAW or JPEG on the Canon R100?

Choose Large JPEG if you want easy sharing with little editing. Choose RAW if you plan to edit, or RAW + JPEG if you want both and have enough storage.

What ISO should I use on the R100?

Start low when there is enough light, then raise ISO as needed to maintain a useful shutter speed and exposure. My Auto ISO maximum is 6400, but the right limit depends on the conditions and how much noise you accept.

Why can't I tap to focus on the R100?

The R100's screen is not touch-sensitive. Use the camera's buttons to select and move an autofocus point or choose Face+Tracking for people.

Do I have to use manual mode?

No. I use M while setting up this walkthrough to access the relevant menu options, but you can choose another shooting mode afterward. Some settings behave differently or become unavailable in automatic modes.

My final setup

Start with the file type that matches your workflow, set 3:2, use a sensible ISO limit and choose an autofocus method for your subject. Take a few test shots, check focus and exposure, then adjust the settings that matter to you.

Keep reading

Watch more camera tutorials on Adam Harig on YouTube.

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