Sony a6000 Photo Settings: A Beginner’s Guide

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The quick answer

For Sony a6000 photo settings, start with a 3:2 aspect ratio, the largest image size and a file format that fits how you edit. I used RAW & JPEG for flexibility, but Fine JPEG is a simpler choice if you want photos ready to share.

For focus, I usually used Continuous AF and Wide focus area with the kit lens. Switch to Single AF for a stationary subject, or choose a smaller focus area when the camera keeps picking the wrong thing. These are starting points, so adjust them for what you shoot.

Watch the full video

Watch the full video on YouTube

In this guide:

• Starting settings
• Image size and quality
• Focus and drive mode
• Exposure and color
• Other helpful settings
• Frequently asked questions

Sony a6000 photo settings at a glance

Open the menu and look under Camera Settings for the main photo options. Some settings can be unavailable depending on the shooting mode or lens, so use a still-photo mode when following along.

Choose your image size and quality

Set the aspect ratio to 3:2. This gives you the full 3:2 frame, and you can crop it later if you want a wider image. For JPEGs, choose L: 24M to keep the largest available image size. RAW files are recorded at the large size.

Fine JPEG, RAW or RAW & JPEG?

Choose Fine if you want a JPEG that is easy to view and share without editing. It is a good place to start if you are still learning the camera.

Choose RAW if you plan to edit your photos and want more flexibility with adjustments such as white balance and exposure. You will need software that can work with the files.

I used RAW & JPEG in the full guide because it gives me a JPEG to use quickly and a RAW file to edit later. The tradeoff is storage: the camera saves both files for each shot. In my short a6000 photo quality guide, I also walk through choosing RAW and the 3:2 aspect ratio.

Set focus and drive mode for your subject

Continuous AF or Single AF?

With the 16-50mm kit lens, I usually kept Focus Mode on Continuous AF. It continues adjusting focus while you hold the shutter button halfway down, which is useful when you or the subject are moving.

For a stationary subject, Single-shot AF finds focus and locks it while you hold the shutter halfway. Manual focus is another option, especially with a manual lens, but take time to check focus before shooting.

Choose where the camera looks

I usually used Wide focus area, which lets the camera look across the frame. If it focuses on the wrong object, try Zone to restrict the area, Center for a subject in the middle, or Flexible Spot to move a small focus box onto a specific detail.

For people, I enabled face detection so the camera could look for a face. Still check the result: a detected face or focus box does not guarantee every photo will be sharp.

Single or continuous shooting?

I normally used Single Shooting for a planned photo. Hold the shutter in Continuous Shooting to take a burst, which is useful for sports or a child running around. Bursts fill the card faster, so switch back when you do not need them.

Set ISO, metering and white balance

ISO Auto is a reasonable place to start. Higher ISO can make noise more visible, so I try to keep it as low as practical while still getting a usable exposure. Opening the aperture or slowing the shutter can let in more light, but a slower shutter also makes movement harder to keep sharp.

I used Multi metering as an all-around starting point because it considers the scene across the frame. Check the photo afterward, especially when the subject and background have very different brightness.

I also used Auto White Balance. It adjusts the color balance for the light, and you can try a preset or custom white balance if the result looks too warm or cool.

For JPEGs, I kept Creative Style on Standard and Picture Effect off. That gives you a straightforward image to start with. If you like a different in-camera look, try it, but remember that the look is applied to the JPEG.

Other settings worth checking

SteadyShot with a compatible lens

With a stabilized lens such as the 16-50mm kit lens, I used SteadyShot on for handheld photos to help reduce camera shake. It cannot freeze a moving subject. Sony recommends turning SteadyShot off when using a tripod; turn it back on when you return to handheld shooting.

Grid, review and manual focus

I used the Rule of Thirds grid to help with framing, and set Auto Review to two seconds so I could briefly check a photo after taking it.

For manual focus, focus peaking can highlight edges that appear to be in focus. In the video I used a high peaking level and red as the color. Treat the highlight as a guide and check your image, especially when focus is critical.

Frequently asked questions

What are the best Sony a6000 photo settings for a beginner?

Start with 3:2, Fine JPEG or RAW & JPEG, Auto white balance and Multi metering. Use Wide focus area and pick Continuous AF or Single-shot AF according to whether your subject is moving.

Should I shoot RAW or JPEG on the Sony a6000?

Fine JPEG is convenient when you want a photo ready to share. RAW gives you more editing flexibility, while RAW & JPEG saves both at the cost of more card space.

Which focus mode should I use for moving subjects?

Try Continuous AF so the camera can keep adjusting focus while you hold the shutter halfway. Pair it with Continuous Shooting if you want a burst, and check which frames are sharp.

Why is my Sony a6000 focusing on the wrong thing?

Wide focus area lets the camera choose from across the frame. Try Zone or Flexible Spot to tell it where to look, then check that the intended subject is in focus.

Final thoughts

Set the basics once, then change the settings that fit the shot in front of you. A smaller focus area, a burst or a different ISO can be more useful than keeping every setting exactly as I used it in the video.

Keep reading

• My Sony E 55-210mm lens review
• How to enable clean HDMI on the Sony a6000

Watch more camera guides on FoxTailWhipz.